You should use a Botanical Antimicrobial on EVERY single water damage job and to all the wet areas.
Why aren’t you using them? Do you have concerns about safety or the effectiveness?
Let’s address these concerns:
If you are not using an antimicrobial because you are worried about the health risk associated with the application then Use botanical antimicrobials!
Botanicals are very effective and do not require PPE or evacuation of the affected areas. This eliminates most health concerns for both the technicians and the building occupants making botanical antimicrobial use very safe.
Antimicrobials are very effective at killing mold and bacteria. The application of an antimicrobial does not constitute mold remediation as the goal. It can stop growth of mold and will effectively eliminate bacteria. Obviously the application of an antimicrobial does not replace proper cleaning and other techniques.
Antimicrobials are only effective on surfaces that they touch.
Antimicrobial use must follow the directions provided by the manufacturer.
Let’s say just for example we are charging $0.25 per square foot. I am not saying that’s what you should charge it is just an example that we are using.
Let’s say we have a class 2 loss
10×10 bedroom=100 sq ft
100 sq ft x $0.25= $25.00 But that’s just the floor!
Antimicrobials should be applied to all wet surfaces and since we are looking at a Class 2 loss we know that the water has wicked up in to the drywall.
You want should apply the antimicrobial at least 2 feet up the walls in a class 1 and Class 2 loss.
So now let’s look at the walls:
10x10x10x10= 40 linear Feet x 2ft up= 80 Sq Feet
80 sq ft x $0.25= $20.00
That’s a grand total of $45.00 for just one 10×10 room! But what if you had 3 10×10 rooms in the one job?
This is just an example of one small job and you have added $135.00 for just a few extra mins of work!
Regarding application you must follow the directions on the product you are using. For that reason we can’t give an exact process here other than read the label and do exactly what it says. Here are a few general guidelines:
If the disinfectant is a concentrate, mix it exactly as it says. Do not make it stronger because of a particularly bad job.
Aerosolizing does not work and is potentially very hazardous.
These application recommendations below are assuming clean water loss. There are several other steps required if you are dealing with sewage or other black water conditions.
Disinfectants only work on stuff they touch.
Due diligence would in most cases state that you would not tear out base and drywall on a clean water loss just to apply disinfectant. Obviously each case is different so use professional judgement.
Typical application would be to exposed surfaces. Spray onto surfaces that water touched or has wicked into. Apply to flooring and two feet up the wall or a bit higher than the water has wicked higher in a class 1, 2 and 4 water loss.
In a class 3 apply to all wet surfaces. Charge for all of those surfaces, not just floor footage.
Apply to the floor from underneath in a crawlspace or basement.